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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.